Hi Folks,
Have you ever used retinol to emulsify water inside the oil phase of a w/o/w emulsion?
Retinol shouldn't be a good emulsifier as it is very hydrophobic, but it seems that the hydroxil group acts as polar head to disperse water inside the oily core of a microparticle.
We have found out this surprising phenomenon when creating retinol emulsions and would like to avoid it. How could we decrease the retinol water-emulsifying power?
Thanks!
To change the emulsifying properties of retinol, it is necessary to change the structure of retinol in accordance with the HLB.To reduce the lifetime of the inverse emulsion with retinol, it is necessary to increase the interfacial surface tension and increase the temperature.
Structural change of the retinol is one option, a methyl, cyclopropyl or ethyl masking of the hydroxyl group will add up to a bit more lipophilicity to the retinol. An addition of a co-solvent/co-surfactant to modify the retinol character is another option.
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