1. If you're working with hydrocarbon PEMFCs, your catalyst ink should be ~20-25 wt% polymer: 75-80% Pt/C electrocatalyst 50:50 MeOH:H2O, but I'd up the MeOH in the ratio depending on your deposition temperature. Make sure ionomer is added dropwise.
2. The best electrode deposition technique is spray-coating onto a heated substrate. Sono-Tek is one company that supplies decent spray coaters that give consistent results (I use the ExactaCoat SC) - there is a learning curve and there are a few improvements that could be made, but it's the best system I've seen. Inkjet printing is okay, and possibly a cheaper alternative.
3. Spray-coat a larger area electrode than you intend to run (e.g. 6.25 cm^2 for a 5 cm^2 cell).
4. Use 2-3 mil laminate paper and punch out your electrode area - laminate around the edges of the electrode. DO NOT HEAT PRESS. Please, please do not heat press. People figured that one out 15 years ago, and yet still people heat press. Unless you're using decal-transfer electrodes, all you're doing is damaging your electrodes and destroying your ability to achieve consistent results.
5. Place the GDLs (e.g. Sigracet 25BC) on the electrodes and mount. Add extra gasketing to give 20-30% GDL compression, and torque the cell 30 to 50 in-lbs. Fujifilm Prescale LLLW is pressure-sensitive film that can confirm correct and even compression.