I am a student learning organic skin care formulations with interest in natural emulsifiers like the OliveM series, Montanov Series etc. I understand that the HLB system is used for non-ionic surfactants. I have read this blog post that talks about how the HLB system should be ignored.
https://formulabotanica.com/what-is-hlb-and-why-should-you-ignore-it/
However, there is no consensus.
How relevant is the HLB system to the new emulsifiers in the Organic segment ? Are there any new systems that are more contemporary?
Can anyone share their experience of the HLB system's relevance today? Has anyone found the HLB system limiting with organic segment of emulsifiers?
Looking forward to pointers for more learning.
Thank you.
I do not agree with
« Anyone who encourages you to calculate the HLB of your emulsifiers will be mainly used to working with synthetic emulsifiers and won’t necessarily understand the nuances of natural cosmetic formulating » An emulsion is an emulsion whether it is in pharmacy, cosmetics (organic or not), food or bitumen. Surfactants change as well as the use but not the phenomenon.
Many formulators have no knowledge of physicochemistry and use methods with ready-made mixtures made available by manufacturers or empirical methods with many tests.
Indeed everything has been described by the dinosaurs and there has been no innovative theory since. You can read the excellent chapter by Prof. Salager. https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.1038.5792&rep=rep1&type=pdf
You can of course use the HLB based method (one method among others). For a surfactant the calculation of the HLB is not only based on the PEG part; and you can find surfactants to replace those PEG-based like as sucrose esters or akylpolyglucosides
https://www.in-cosmetics.com/__novadocuments/486273?v=636656920838730000
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