There is ample evidence demonstrating that attractiveness is constrained by biological motives. Facial attractiveness has been positively related to reproductive success (Jokela, 2009; Rhodes et al., 2005), health and longevity (Henderson and Anglin, 2003; Shackelford and Larsen, 1999), immunocompetence (Jones et al., 2001; Scheib et al., 1999), immune function (Klein, 2000; Lie et al., 2008; Roberts et al., 2005; Roney et al., 2006), and healthy aging and diet (Fink et al., 2001; Jones et al., 2004; Matts et al., 2007; Stephen et al., 2012).
However, is evident, and some theorists argue, that socialization also plays an important role. The attractive patterns are different in different societies and times; and other non-physical aspects, such as intelligence, humour or creativity, also influence this. While some theorists consider that attractiveness ratings are universal, while others state that they are highly idyosincratic.
¿What is the current state of the art on sociological accounts of attractiveness?
I cannot weigh in as a sociologist, but I can say that in psychology it seems as if the primary effort on the part of researchers has been to find universals rather than look for cultural differences (for whatever reason). This is not to say that the notion of cultural relativity is totally absent. For example, Wheeler and Kim (1997) have noted that Koreans (unlike Americans) do not rate attractive faces in a way so as to imply that they indicate "potency", and they rated them as having more integrity and concern for others (again, unlike most Americans). Hope this helps.
Kniffin Wilson has a paper suggesting that personality affects attractiveness ratings. As I recall, they used yearbook photos and examined ratings at beginning and end of class (before and after personalities were well known). I haven't read it in a bit, but here is the link: http://evolution.binghamton.edu/dswilson/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/DSW13.pdf
Also, check out this paper by Little et al. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3130383/
It is rather difficult to study experimentally the effects of culture, et cetera, on perceptions of attractiveness. Maybe history/ethnography would be better guides. But, studies strongly suggest that perceptions of facial beauty are universal/cross cultural, probably even more so than bodily beauty.
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