I must study this because I want to investigate about the cross-shore sediment transport due to waves in beaches. I am looking for, papers, books and documents that speak specifically about this topic, but I cannot find something that explains it. Could you please help me by indicating where I can find bibliography that speaks and explains this topic? Or maybe you can explain me how this physical process is.
I think that steepness alters the vertical orbital geometry of the wave, favoring as H/L increases the movements below the wave trough, while as H/L decreases, the movements below the crest should be favored. But I need to confirm this or rule it out.
Thanks a lot, in advance.