You can test through assays that evaluate the ability of release, permeation and retention using pre-standardized human skin from surgical procedures using Franz-type diffusion cells (FRANZ, 1975).
I think you should monitor the change in the extracellular matrix of cell culture tissue resulting from treatment with your herbal extract, with the result you can get using MTT (mitochondrial tetrazolium test) ... I think this document will help you :
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Tetrazolium dyes as tools in cell biology: New insights into their cellular reduction ARTICLE in BIOTECHNOLOGY ANNUAL REVIEW · FEBRUARY 2005 DOI: 10.1016/S1387-2656(05)11004-7 · Source: PubMed