I am attempting to synthesize a cosmeceutical facial spray that is an o/w emulsion. Below is my prototype formula using Polysorbate-80 and Polysorbate-20 as emulsifiers, Leucidal and Linatural as preservatives and Disodium EDTA as a chelating agent and preservative booster. I was hoping to get feedback on my formula to see if it seemed stable on paper. I have approximately a 1:1 ratio of oil:emulsifier, a 3% final volume of preservative with a chelating booster.
• Rose water 33% pH ~5.5 (99mL)
• Purified water 33% pH ~7 (99mL)
• Jojoba seed oil 5% pH ~5 (15mL)
• PolySorbate80 5% pH ~6 (15mL)
• Glycerin, palm 4% pH ~6.5 (12mL)
• Argan oil 3% pH ~5 (9mL)
• Licorice Root extract 3% (9mL)
• Aloe extract 3% pH ~5 (9mL)
• PolySorbate20 3% pH ~5.5 (9mL)
• Dimethicone 3% (9mL)
• Leucidal 2% (6mL)
• Linatural 1% (3mL)
• Geranium Rose oil 0.5%(1.5mL)
• Disodium EDTA 0.5% (15mG)
• Jasmine extract 0.3% (1mL)
Water Phase (all ingredients introduced while sheering and sheered until solute): Gently heat water + rose water dilution to 70C. Add Disodium EDTA. Add glycerin. Add Aloe extract. Add Licorice Root extract. Add polysorbate80. Add Polysorbate20.
Oil Phase (all ingredients introduced while sheering and sheered until dispersed; final oil phase mixture heated to 70C): Add jojoba oil. Add argan oil. Add dimethicone.
Emulsifying Phase: Slowly add water phase to oil phase while sheering until 50% of water phase is added, then quickly add remaining 50% of water phase. Remove from heat and sheer for 1 hour.
Additive phase: Add Geranium Rose extract, sheer. Add Jasmine extract, sheer. Add Leucidal, sheer. Add Linatural, sheer. Store final emulsion in sterile airtight, UV protectant bottles.
Hi, what instrument did you use to prepare the emulsion? Ultra turrax or homogenizer at high pressure? What is the distribution of the particle size? What is the potential Z,? Knowing this information is the only way to know if your formulation is stable. Did you make stability evaluations at 45 °C?
Except for theoretical surface tension calculations, a lot of work depends on experimental optimizations.
Particle distribution should also be considered (measurements).
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