Do bobbies react to drones or other flying apparatusses?

19 April 2015 23 2K Report

I wonder if anyone has experience with marine birds in colonies and their reaction to flying devices such as drones, or remotely operated helicopters and airplanes. I am planning to film with a Phantom 2 Vision + drone around a rocky outcrop which has a huge brown bobbie colony. I am worried about possible aggresion from the birds to the drone and the potential injuries to the birds and demise of my drone. Any direct experience advice would be appreciated, not looking much for especulation. Thanks in advance.

Johann Mourier

Hi Ramon,

we used drone Phantom 2 for shark surveys in tropical lagoon and we had indeed some interactions with birds, especially turns that were quite aggressive to the drone but never touched it. I suspect we were flying in proximity to their nest and they came to the drone to protect their nest. Bobbies never interacted with it although we were not in presence of colonies.

Hope this help. I would be happy to know what was the reaction of these birds when you will do it. Please keep me updated.

Johann

Yuri Albores-Barajas

Hi Ramon, we have also used a Phantom 2 on a Western Gull colony and they are very reactive. None of them attacked the drone however. With cormorants they just flushed away without trying to make contact with the drone. My feeling with the boobies is that they will also flush away, so try to keep the drone some distance away. There is a nice paper about the use of drones for studying birds at http://rsbl.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/11/2/20140754

Cheers

Ramón Bonfil

Dear Johann

Thanks for your very useful imput. In fact, the area where I will be working IS a very important nesting site for brown bobbies, so I am off to sure trouble.... I will be extra careful and will try to avoid flying close to their nesting sites.

What shark species were you studying and where? I am very interested in hearing about your project and experience. Was the drone helpful? This will be the first time I use it out at sea and am VERY worried about losing it if it falls to the sea... I am also wondering how effective it will be for locating the devil rays we are hoping to tag.

Best wishes

Ramón Bonfil

Gracias Yuri

Very encouraging to hear that so far, 3 species of marine birds react but do not attack the drones... I will be super careful, since this is an important nesting site for brown boobies and I am sure they will react. I'll try to stay as far away from their nesting site as possible. And thanks a lot for the lead to the interesting paper.

Cheers

Gian Paolo Sanino

Hi Ramón,

we met on 2004 in Thailand during the CITES-COP13. I also use a DJI Phantom but the first model. Since it is lighter than next models, I find it to be more suitable for modifications and sturdy. Of course it is a personal choice since it fly-time is lesser due to the smaller battery (I have 4 and a 12 VCD multi-charger). I use it to assess coastal cetaceans in Patagonia (Southern Chile) as well as sea bird and sea lions population dynamics by assessing their reproductive sites. It is by far the source for most accurate data I know. However, it is good to take some precautions.

Each researcher may have something to add on this regard, and perhaps each site has its own characteristics so no easy/general formula here except some broad common sense approaches. In my experience wildlife does not show antagonistic behaviour to the drone unless it is operated in a confusing manner that allows it to be related to prior negative associations. IMO the drone's presence itself is not a source of concern to fauna until it behaves as something that represents a known risk. In most cases, the drone is new to them and the default reaction is not fear nor aggression but just attention and deep analysis. This is in general of course and the experience of others may be different.

In general, my main precautions are:

First is to recognize you need to be a good pilot and just after that to focus on the images. There is a lot of off-site practice that is needed in advance (learn all the flying modes CL/HL/GPS/Atti, etc).

Use more silent motors (T-motors / anti-gravity) than the originals, or at least change to more silent props like the 3-blade GWS 9050. Quite cheap and way more silent. They need to be balanced and use nuts since are not self-tight.

To diminish the noise and shaky movements you have to master the art of balancing props, motors, and adjusting your gains based on your type of environment and load (with or without camera gimbal, FPV, etc).

Cover the LEDs under the arms, at least the reds with white duct-tape. You have to make your device also be more visually friendly at least at the beginning of the relationship between your target and your drone. The first impression has to be good.

In general I fly in Atti rather than GPS mode (never in Manual), since it helps producing videos with lesser vibrations but also the flight itself is more smooth and lesser agile, therefore representing a lower risk. I even decrease drone's reactivity (gains) to help producing a smooth and gently flight in opposition to acrobatics.

Choose days with almost no wind to help you producing smooth but under control flights. If it is windy and you are on GPS mode, the drone will over-react just to keep your position but also scare/challenge the animals unnecessarily. Try to avoid producing negative associations and soon you will be so close to them without even caring about you.

An adjusting to the drone's presence period is highly recommended. Fly not to close to your target sometimes without "paying attention" to them. Just fly by slow and gentle so it can be seen and then leave gently. This will help your target to get rid of the first curiosity. There is benefit if you can start by flying lower than your target instead as higher, to prevent negative associations.

Do not chase your target. That is harassing and you know what an animal thinks about somebody chasing it from the sky... again, pure common sense. I know some cases of pilots just shooting the drone to the animals, and they may get the images, but also inducing negative associations with it.

I used prop guards in the past and they tended to increase the intolerance responses, perhaps because they make the drone look bigger. Something the black props that I recommended, also help to diminish. Inside forests you may need the prop guards anyway.

Depending on your data, you may not need to approach a lot to your target, and instead you can take the images from higher altitude without your target even notice your presence. This is my case with sea lions as well as to counting active nests of sea bird colonies. On these cases I approach from high altitude and hover on top. They do not even know I am there. If I have to be almost at the same altitude as my target or very close (i.e. cliffs), I try to fly under them first very slow and then get to the needed altitude while I am getting back. So like approaching indirectly instead of going after my target. This flight attitude makes the entire difference.

Plan your flight in advance profiting that the drone can fly on any direction. Like recording to your side instead of ahead. This can "hide" part of your intentions to approach your target and thus minimize possible agonistic reactions.

FPV has been very useful in my case since I can see on FPV goggles (better under sunlight than screens) the image of the camera in real time. Then at the minimum sign of discomfort I slow down the drone and continue while taking some distance. No need to go away but just showing you are not dangerous, by continuing slower and at just a couple feet away prom previous distance.

If you are filming marine wildlife, I recommend you to add a circular polarized filter to your camera. It adds some weight but removes the reflections on the water and this helps so much following animals underwater from the sky. Just pay attention to the position of your filter since it will work only in one direction regarding the light direction. So, check that in advance.

The best time to fly is early morning and close t sunset, because the lights is better (lesser haze) and also shadows help a lot to collect data from the photos/videos. At noon they may be too small and the image result being confusing.

Finally, previous to any flight with wildlife you have to think about which are going to be the variables/behavior that you will assume as agonistic or intolerance. These have to alow you to diagnose stress before the animals leave or challenge. It has to become a tool to diagnose on time to adjust your flight. So, have a plan about what is going to be the response of the drone on that case (never fly away like nuts, it may induce panic or increase the negative responses). So have clear if you will slow down even more, and take more distance but gently, or just continue and repeat the flight again in 15 minutes, etc.

As an example of application of this technology, size estimations of sea lion colonies from boats, often result in images from too far since the animals jump to the water as soon as they see a boat approaching to them in a clear association to illegal culling by salmon farmers (something quite common in Chile). It may take long time and patience to approach in boat to these type of colonies and get the needed photos. However, with the phantom and after several flights, I have been able to keep the boat hundreds of metters away from the colony and get the phantom as close as 4 meters from them without any individual jumping to the water nor caring about the drone's presence at all.

I hope some of these ideas result useful on your case,

with kind regards,

gps

Ramón Bonfil

Caro Gian Paolo

Grazzie! Your email was extremely helpful. I really appreciate you taking so much time to share your valuable experience. I will benefit a lot from your advice.

One question, I had already thought about getting a polarizer filter for the camera of the Phantom 2 Vision + drone.... do you know where I can get one that fits exactly into it? I doubt they already make them specifically for this camera.

Also, I can't wait for someone to launch a water-proof or at least, a floating Drone...

Cheers

Ramón

Gian Paolo Sanino

Hi Ramón, sure it depends on your camera. One reason I prefer the setting for the GoPro is because there are so many accesories for that camera.

This is the filter I got (37mm).

Now for the P2 Vision, I also attached here a link. It is not expensive but not as cheap as the gopro solution.You can also get the filters from Edmund Optics and "cut" them to the size you need.There is also a company "RageCams" that produces many mods for small cameras like these. Check their filter in the link as well. Indeed, there are waterproof drones and also, the phantom can be protected with some special treatment to survive a plunge. But at other prices, settings etc. I need my gimbal to be free to stabilize the image and not inside a box... I added some foam as a floating device on the landing gear (if recovered fast and washed with fresh water, most of the phantom can be saved).

Just check your power all the time and never depart without your green LED. You need that "back to home" feature to be active in case of any emergency.

Flying close to cliffs, can be tricky due to the currents. In case of an emergency remember that in GPS mode you have lesser power than in Atti. And using HL (home lock) can be very effective in bringing back to home your drone. I do agree with others in that we should always fly at the larger distance we can be effective from our targets.

with kind regards,

gps

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231409808066?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DJI-Phantom-2-Vision-plus-Neutral-Grey-Circular-Polarize-Filter-and-UV-Gel-Filte-/161626166767?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a1ab95ef

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIZER-FILTER-FLARING-LIGHT-REDUCER-WARMER-COLORS-for-DJI-HD-Phantom-Vision2-/381134198155?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58bd5e558b

Johann Mourier

Hi Ramon,

we used drones to count sharks in lagoons of French Polynesia. targeted sepcies were blacktip reef sharks (C. melanopterus) and stingrays as well as juvenile blckatip reef sharks and lemon sharks in their nurseries.

More about the project: http://saveourseas.com/projects/counting_sharks_with_drones

with additionnal information:

https://johannmourier.wordpress.com/2014/08/22/shark-research-project-in-tetiaroa-2014/

https://johannmourier.wordpress.com/2014/07/25/field-trip-2014-for-shark-research-in-moorea/

The main problem you may encounter for sightings your rays may be the water visibility. In French Polynesia we had clear waters...

You have to train flying the drone on land first as you can make an error over the water (we lost one drone on our first field session)...

Ramón Bonfil

Hi Johann

Thanks again for sharing. Did you use a polarizer filter? I have been training as much as I can, probably done about a dozen flights already, including a few over the edge of the water. Still feel really worried about the drone just falling into the battery...

What exactly happened to that drone? Just human error or did it go into fail safe mode o the battery ran out?

Cheers

Ramón Bonfil

Thanks again Gian Paolo!

It would be great to hear about how to mae a Phantom 2 waterproof... Do you know how much extra weight we can load on the Phantom 2? I had thought about putting some foam bouys on the landing gear but I am not sure how much weight I can put without compromizing its flying capabilities.

Luca Puglisi

Hi Ramon,

In my short experience, Italian herons do not react to a drone flying over their nesting colony. The flight height was set at 50 m; I don't know much technical details since it was controlled by a professional 'pilot'. However I know form the experience of a colleague, that lower height can induce a reaction even from the older nestlings.

So I suggest you to try first setting a safe height.

All the best

luca

Guilherme Kodja

I have flew a DJI Phantom 2 Vision in two islands in the Brazilian coastline where I have my research om Manta bisrostris. One of them "Laje de Santos" is the biggest nest area for brown boobies in South Atlantic. What happen is, if you fly the drone around 30 to 50 meters above the nest taking off not less than 50 m from the nest area, they will not be disturbed. The Frigates sometimes get to close but the boobies on their nests, in this distance not even note the drone flying. That´s my experience with them. Check out the photo. Safe distance from nests.

Ramón Bonfil

Luca, and Guilherme, thanks a lot for sharing your experiences!

Gian Paolo Sanino

Hi Ramón,

Anything you add to your drone, will somehow compromise the response of the drone and it is why you have to learn to adjust your gains accordingly. Also, you may need to increase your lifting power by switching to a 3-blade prop, but there is always a balance with it. They also add more weight and you loose responsiveness with them, thus you have to check your setting.

I do not know the load limit for the P2 Vision. But I would not recommend to add more than 300g to its original set because the hull itself, and despite of being very strong, it has proven to experience cracks at the area of the screws holding the motors when stressed by over-weighted settings. I try to always keep the drone below the 1.2kg (a P1). It is important to create profiles with "Assistant" for each settings (type of props, with or without foam, FPV etc).

Also, It is well known that the screws supporting the motors are not always set properly from the factory (sometimes too loose or over-tightened). Most RC forum recommend to re-adjust them. Also, it is a good idea to add an o'ring between the motors and each screw to help preventing those hull cracks and diminish vibrations. Never add chemicals (lube) to the motors (clean them using an air compressor) since the material of the hull seems to get damaged by some lube. Just be careful to keep your motors clean (never take off from sand or too close to it) and if you need to take-off/land from a boat, you have to learn the "hand-catch" technique (never with CF props because they are just too dangerous).

Waterproof protection

I have not seen it personally but read about it in a couple of RC forum. It seems to do its job and it is known as Liquipel and some drone dealers are selling devices previously treated by liquipel. Check the link as well.

About floating:

Even if you protect the electronics inside, the drone does not float and you may loose it anyway. The easiest way to make it float is by adding the foams. I attached a youtube link that shows how to install them. Do not forget to cover previously the compass sensor with some tape to protect it from the water. It is likely it will be underwater during any test. Then check it in a pool, as well as if the foam is getting or not on the frame of the camera and compensate the flying response by adjusting your gains.

Another approach that you may be even more interested is to attach a device that deploys an inflatable buoy in case of being submerged. The most popular is the "water buoy" (check the link). It is just right for the weight of most Phantom sets (1kg of lifting power in the water).

In my case I added a voltmeter that triggers a loud buzzer when reaching 3.7V on any of the battery cells. Then I get it back with no discussions. Same case with FPV reaching 10.6V. Most accidents are due to extending too much the flight time. But your device should provide you with at least 10 minutes with good response and that is more than enough to get the images from a bird colony. The entire flight should take you even lesser than 5 minutes. Then, you should be just fine with your drone and practicing a lot in advance.

Just as divers do with the currents, you should plan your mission departing against the wind and returning in favor, to add an extra layer of safety. One more recommendation is to never go down vertically, specially if using the original 9443 props, unless doing it very slow and without strong currents. They tend, more than other available props, to produce a condition known as Vortex Ring State that can cause the lost of control (google it). It happened to me once but I knew about it and practiced in advance how to break that VRS and was able to recover control just in time. Close to a cliff you can find currents that may increase this risk and it is easy to prevent by flying gently and always descending on "clean" air (funnel/spiral technique) instead of over your own wash on the vertical axis.

Again, you have to become an experienced pilot and just after that deal with the filming side of the job, from distance and just getting closer if needed until identifying signs of intolerance (unusual number of birds taking off simultaneously, etc). I am sure you will do just fine and this is a great technique. Not just to count active units but also to measure the coverage area of the colony, investing just a couple minutes.

I am working in a different approach. I am still waiting for the parts to arrive but I want to try in the next three month to collect this type of data, but from an infrared FPV camera (not a great resolution), mounted on a ring of strong IR leds. I wonder how different is this information when collected during the night. I would love a thermal camera solution, but they are too heavy for the phantom, way too expensive and their resolution not always sufficient. So IR may be the way to go, and perhaps with lesser impact. Another approach is to use light cameras that allow you to zoom in (optically) and thus keep your distance. I have no budget to test it but my best candidate for that would be the SONY DSC-QX10. With 10X it may be just fine. Next model with 30X may be too much for keeping your target on frame unless just passing by and then checking by frame. The weight of this camera seems to be ok for the phantom if mounted directly without a gimbal. Its wifi frequency though, should be checked to not overlap with your RC, but even without realtime image, this may help a lot when not being able to approach enough to the target with common cameras.

Un fuerte abrazo!

gps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWZQsTUYuNw

http://www.water-buoy.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3pU0XKQZt4

Ramón Bonfil

Hi Gian Paolo

Thanks again buddy! You have been extremely helpful, thanks for sharing your huge experience with a begginer like me...

One last question. I see that most of the items (such as polarized lens, propellers, water bouy etc.) are sold through US based companies like EBay etc. How do you acquire these things in Italy? I am in Brazil at the moment and am afraid I cannot get any of those items here over the next few days (I am heading out to see next wednesday for a 25 day expedition). I am based in Mexico and I also doubt I can find those items there. How do you deal with this in Italy? You order from the US and they sent things to you all the way to Italy?

BTW. I never explained my project clearly. I will be studing devil rays, Mobula spp. in an island that is very small and has a huge colony of birds. I am not looking for studying the birds and will try to keep away from them as much as possible. But I might have to launch and land the drone from the island and it is so small that I can't launch/land far away from them. Thus my interest in knowing about the reaction of birds to drones.

Ciao e grazzie!

Gian Paolo Sanino

Hi Ramón, I am not based in Italy but in Chile and I go back and for the US at least a couple of times each year. With the Liquipel being the exception, most of the eBay links I sent you, are from dealers that ship to Brazil and Mexico as well. As for the CPL filter I just checked the "shipping" section of the link I sent you and if bought today, it would be before May 8 in México with a cost of 10 USD. So no problem my friend, you can get all this shipped to Mexico, but it takes some time. About the waterbuoy device, you may have to contact the US dealer (http://www.yachtinnovations.com/dealer-info.html) to ask them if they can ship to Mexico by USPS/DHL/other.

Now I understand more bout your study, and you "have" to get the polarized filter. Among all these items, it is the most important. Thinking about your type of study, if you are planning to do systematic flights covering many times the same area, you may be interested to invest in making your drone capable to go for preset missions (to fly passing by preset navpoints+altitudes and get back). You can always change the trajectory during flight and follow the trip on a ground station (screen) but essentially this mode allows you to send the drone to cover a designated area (i.e. avoiding the bird cliff). It is not cheap at all, you will have to open your drone and learn to modify it, but this feature may be very valuable for your study. Check the link.

Un abrazo desde Chile,

gps

http://www.dji.com/product/2-4g-bluetooth-datalink

Ramón Bonfil

Gracias una vez más Gian Paolo!

Frank H, Heppner

In the 70's, I flew big radio control model airplanes with 8mm movie cameras on board to try to get close to flocks of Canada Geese in formation. There was no video in those days, so you couldn't really aim the plane/camera, so it was an engineering triumph but a scientific failure. However, we noted that the geese could fly so much faster than the plane that the flocks simply flew away from it. The new technology is very exciting, but whether it can capture "natural" behavior if the birds can hear or see it may be another question. Good luck.

Ramón Bonfil

Thanks Frank.

Carlos Zavalaga

Hi Ramón:

I flew a DJI Phantom Vision 2+ over seabirds colonies in Peru including Guanay cormorants and Peruvian boobies. Check this link for the videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1advsXNNC3M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4h9HP1Crlc

There are no videos with boobies, but I have them too. In my experience with Peruvian boobies (a shy booby) is that is you fly your drone above 50 m, you will not have any problems. At this height, you will be able to individually count them without any problems. Also, it is better to attain this height at the beginning of the flight, just above the take off spot (usually where you are standing) and flight the drone over the colony at this height. It is also convenient to approach the drone to the colony at low spped, not too fast. The DJI phantom Vison 2+ has 4 flashing lights (two green and two red) that re on during the flight. If the drone is flown at low altitude some seabird species (not all) can see them and scare them off. You just tape them to cover them.

The behavior of the boobies is also different if they are breeders or not. You can appoach closer (30 m) when they have nests, but they will fly away if they are not breeding.

The birds will not hit the drone. When they are flying even at low height, they will see the device and avoid it. I have flown the drone in dense colonies of boobies and terns and the birds where passing close, but not hiting the drone. Don´t worry about this.

I hope this help.

Ramón Bonfil

Yes it does Carlos. Thank you very much for sharing your experience.

Regards

Emeline Pettex

Hello, you may have a look at this publication:

http://rsbl.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/11/2/20140754?rss=1&utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=twitter

Oscar Gonzalez

I recommend contacting Carlos Zavalaga. He is using drones to study colonies of marine birds in Peru

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Carlos_Zavalaga

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