Dear Shivraj, what type of machine do you have, or is your question more to find the largest size any 3d printer can produce. Stratasys has the 900 in the link below: 

http://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/production-series/fortus-900mc

but as far as I know you can do 4m:

http://www.voxeljet.de/en/systems/vx4000/

Maximum size of a part (As you mentioned the ABS-based material-FDM process) depends on different process parameters such as:

For example:

Dimension SST 1200 machine building space size is 25 cm x 25 cm x 30 cm however; the "Dirk van der Kooij" company is printing the bigger objects for home applications such as chair,...using a KUKA robot arm. Based on this, the size of the ABS filament, Nozzle, and heating strategy play important rolls in the maximum printing size and by modifying the machine and processes printing of bigger objects could be feasible .

@Gerro Prinsloo 

We have a Makerbot 2X 3D printer machine and are about to get Replicator 2X one in a couple of months time.

The question is framed by looking at the point mentioned in the literature, which mentions that large size 3D printed parts made from ABS are subjected to warping.

I wanted to know whether anyone experienced the warping of 3D printed parts.

Yes. we experienced the same problem, we reduced this warping problem by

• using heating lamp-radiation which keeps the whole object warm during the process in order to reduce the thermal stress
• Turing on the heating bed (about 80 °C)

and adding some glue spray to the building-substrate.

Hi Shivraj, 

Are you concerned with warping of ABS print from the bed and therefore spoiling your print (which is rather frustrating after enduring endless hours of printing), or are you concerned with warping that would affect the accurate dimension of your print (if high precision is important to you). 

If you are concerned with the former, there are some time-tested solutions available. Since you are using makerbot 2X (I am using that too), you have the option of heating your print bed (I recommend 110 degree Celsius), and use carefully cleaned kapton tape on your platform (which comes with the printer). However these are simply not enough even for small prints.

To make sure your print will not lift from the platform, you can do the "acetone-slurry" method. This is a method that works 100%. In fact, it binds to the tape so strong that new users will probably rip the kapton into pieces trying to remove the print and ended up having to replace the kapton tape.

Briefly, you take pure acetone (commercially available as nail polish remover) and drop a few bits of ABS filaments into it (or ABS scraps from your other prints). Do note that you only need a small amount of ABS (roughly 5% v/v ABS in acetone). Wait for the ABS to disintegrate, shake it up and apply this slurry liberally on top of your kapton tape using a cotton swap. (The slurry should be very watery, and leave a faint residue on your kapton tape after the acetone evaporated). 

And you are good to go. Heat your platform bed and enjoy warp-free printing :) This method has long been proven to work in the 3D printing open-source community, and many people swear by it. 

There are other methods that work quite well too. Hairspray (especially Aquanet brand) and glue stick (UHU glue stick) can help prevent warping too but I don't like the messy and sticky residue left behind on both the print and platform. Also the glue residue often makes the platform uneven and I no longer get the shiny bottom finishing that I get with kapton tapes. 

Heated chamber is generally not needed (and they are expensive) as long as you have an enclosure (which 2X offers). In fact, I often popped the top off as I find it disruptive, and I never experience warping even with 2X's top off ever since I use the slurry method. 

On the other hand, if you are concerned with accurate dimension printing, you can calibrate your 2X printer properly. So far I had never experience more than 1% variation even in large print when measured using a caliper. 

Good luck!

Just to add on to my previous post, the "ABS-slurry" method work because ABS is a great binding substrate for ABS itself. When you spread a very thin layer of ABS (in this case assisted by dispersing ABS in acetone) on kapton, you enhanced the bonding between ABS and kapton, and then the thin layer of ABS substrate will now act as an even stronger surface for ABS print to be laid on top. 

This ABS slurry can be thick but that will just make it a hell for you to remove your print from large platform. Make the slurry as thin as possible (they work even with just a little ABS inside). This will be based entirely on your experience. The thinner you make your ABS slurry, the easier it will be for you to remove your print. Personally I used around 1% v/v ABS in acetone or even lesser. 

Once you get a hang of this, you might want to consider modifying your 2X to include a removable bed (glass usually) that clips on top of your aluminium plate. The purpose of this is to remove the bed after you are done with your print, and pop the bed (together with your print) into a freezer for a couple of minutes. The differential thermal contraction will disengage the print from your build platform. Extremely handy

@Kai Lun Chang

Thank you very much for the detailed clarification.