" cat file.pdb | grep OW | wc" -> gives you the total number of waters (number to the left). Basically is the number of lines that contains an atom named "OW", that should correspond to each one of the waters.
In Chimera you can go to Tools -> General Controls -> Command Line
Here you can pass the command "select :HOH", which will select the water molecule and at the bottom of the window you can see the selected atom numbers too.