attached some references for the tunnel systems I wish it can help

http://www.usask.ca/agriculture/plantsci/vegetable/vegetable/vhightunnel2.htm

http://skemman.is/stream/get/1946/23343/52997/1/Guidelines_Aquaponics_20151112.pdf

Lettuce

Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing.

Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart.

Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart.

Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart.

·  Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across.

·  Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil.

·  Water thoroughly at time of transplant.

·  Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce.

Harvest/Storage

Lettuce should be harvested when full size, but just before maturity. You want it young and tender.

Before maturity, you can harvest leaf lettuce by simply removing outer leaves so that the center leaves can continue to grow. Butterhead or romaine types can be harvested by removing the outer leaves, digging up the whole plant or cutting the plant about an inch above the soil surface. A second harvest is often possible this way. Crisphead lettuce is picked when the center is firm.

Mature lettuce gets bitter and woody and it will go bad quickly, so check your garden everyday.

As time passes, you will want to cut the whole plant from the ground.

It’s best to harvest in the morning before leaves have been exposed to sun.

Keep lettuce in the refrigerator for up to 10 days in a loose plastic bag.

Kales

You can plant kale anytime from early spring to early summer. If you plant kale late in the summer you can harvest it from fall until the ground freezes in winter.

Mix 1-½ cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 25 feet of row into the top 3 to 4 inches of soil.

Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep into well-drained, light soil.

After about 2 weeks, thin the seedlings so that they are spaced 8 to 12 inches apart.

Harvest/Storage

Kale is ready to harvest when the leaves are about the size of your hand.

Pick about one fistful of leaves per harvest. Avoid picking the terminal bud (found at the top center of the plant) because this will help to keep the plant productive.

Kale will continue growing until it’s 20 degrees F. It tastes even sweeter with a touch of frost.

If you wish to extend your harvest, shield your kale from the cold with row covers. Or, create a makeshift cover with tarps and old blankets propped up by hay bales or something similar.

The small, tender leaves can be eaten uncooked and used in salads.

Cut and cook the larger leaves like spinach, but be sure to remove the ribs before cooking.

You can store kale as you would any other leafy green; put the kale in a plastic bag and store it in the refrigerator. It should last about 1 week.

Pepper

Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before last spring frost date.

The temperature must be at least 70 degrees F for seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results.

Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant. The leaves of two plants help protect peppers against sunscald, and the yield is often twice as good as two segregated plants.

Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting.

A week before transplanting, introduce fertilizer or aged compost in your garden soil.

After the danger of frost has passed, transplant seedlings outdoors, 18 to 24 inches apart (but keep paired plants close to touching.)

Soil should be at least 65 degrees F, peppers will not survive transplanting at temps any colder. Northern gardeners can warm up the soil by covering it with black plastic.

Put two or three match sticks in the hole with each plant, along with about a teaspoon of fertilizer. They give the plants a bit of sulfur, which they like.

Care

Soil should be well-drained, but maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering.

Water one to two inches per week, but remember peppers are extremely heat sensitive. If you live in a warm or desert climate, watering everyday may be necessary.

    Fertilize after the first fruit set.

    Weed carefully around plants.

    If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers.

    For larger fruit, spray the plants with a solution of one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water, once when it begins to bloom, and once ten days later.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest as soon as peppers reach desired size.

The longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their Vitamin C content.

Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant for the least damage.

Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.

Bell peppers can be dried, and we would recommend a conventional oven for the task. Wash, core, and seed the peppers. Cut into one-half-inch strips. Steam for about ten minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven at 140 degrees F (or the lowest possible temperature) until brittle, stirring occasionally and switching tray positions. When the peppers are cool, put them in bags or storage containers.